1950’s and 60 ‘s French haute couture
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Image Credit: Paris Evenings: Long, Short
Frances McLaughlin-Gill, Vogue © Conde Nast
LE NEW LOOK
Garment: Bar Jacket, size 38
Fabric: Dry Touch Triple Wool, 780g
Canvas: Chargeurs PCC – Canvas C42-55
Fusing: Chargeurs PCC – 6616/23 (to be used on facing)
We have collected a 50’s inspired bar jacket from a French tailor. We have the pattern set up with seam allowance (LE NEW LOOK S.dxf) and without seam allowance (LE NEW LOOK.dxf).
“Bar Jacket was the iconic jacket created originally by Christian Dior for his ‘Ligne Corolle’ in 1947, from the show that was famously dubbed ‘The New Look’ by Carmel Snow, then Editor in Chief of Harpers Bazaar US. The jacket is a softer shape, with sloping rounded shoulders, narrow waist and padding at the hips.”Business of fashion, Fashion A-Z
Garment: Draped dress, size 38
Fabric: Silk Interlock Jersey, 167g
“The pattern of the dress I’m sharing with you consists of quite simple straight pieces that folds and gathers together to create volume and shape. They can easily be manipulated by extending and/or reshaping to fit in with the concept of micro pleating which is the signature of Madame Grès.”Mårten Andreasson, Pattern Cutter
LA LIGNE A
Garment: Basic Dress, size 38
Fabric: Heavy Wool Jersey, 493g
Fusing: Chargeurs PCC – 6625/A23 (to be used all over)
This dress is sleeveless, and it has still both the bust dart and the shoulder dart. These darts can be redirected into the cutlines of your Mondrian inspiration. Facings also needs to be added to get the realistic outlook in 3D.
Garment: Sculptural dress, size 36
Fabric: Silk Gazaar, 138g
Fusing: Chargeurs PCC – SFK3026/20 (to be used on facings)
”With the images of Elena Rylewska as a starting point I used a piece of basic calico draping it on the dummy. My aim was to create a sculptural yet wearable dress from an abstract pattern with as little resemblance as possible to a regular dress pattern.
While working with the fabric on the dummy I realized that the shape of the pattern allowed the fold and grain to be altered between CB and CF, this gives you the possibility to place the opening in the center front of the dress for a more youthful look.
In my suggestion the opening is in the back, CF is placed on fold and cut on the bias which will give the dress a better fit over the chest/bust and lower stomach.
The result is a fitted dress with sculptural properties in both silhouette and details. The dress is cut from two main pieces: the skirt and the top. The skirt has big pleats on the waistline to create volume, the big pleats on the sides are angled forwards to achieve a more flattering silhouette over the hips. Depending on what material is used the pleats can be pressed down or kept organic.
Note that my suggestion is a first draft, and some parts need improvement, such as a better solution for the facing in the armholes or a slit in the skirt for better movement.
Perhaps adding a sleeve or a small collar depending on what style you are looking for.Sofia M. Westin
Why not use a chunky visible zipper in the front to make it sportier”
Garment: Double layered dress, size 36
Fabric Underlayer: Silk Crepe Satin, 158g
Fabric Toplayer: Silk Chiffon, 37g
Fusing Underlayer: Chargeurs PCC – SFK2916/23 (to be used on top underlayer)
”The Dress is inspired by the L’Élégante theme. The first layer in the dress contains of a corset and a slip skirt made in a silk crepe.
The top layer is made in silk chiffon which makes the bodice shoulder and neckline transparent, the skirt half cirkular is cut in wide panels.
The butterfly sleeve is light and flowy transparent made of silk chiffon.”Åsa Hedenström
No pattern available
Level: Advanced / Innovator
Connections of hard trims and soft trims
Inspired by the 60’s dreams of futurism. Connecting hard trims and soft trims is difficult in any 3D system, but we still want to explore if this is possible and when you are up for this challenge, we would surely want to see your garment and the workflow to get there. This is a highly advanced to innovator level assignment. We can’t wait to see what you’ll make of it!